Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these tales and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
