🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled high among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.